The origins of the pilgrimage of People Sunday, or Ħadd in-Nies, remain hidden in that deep fog which so often surrounds the ancient roots of Maltese life. While local historians—most notably the late Reverend Joseph Zarb, the devoted parish priest who worked unceasingly to place a crown of gold upon Our Lady—claims the pilgrimage is over a thousand years old, the cautious historian finds little to go on. I have not seen a single official paper that proves such a long history. The difficulty in dating this event lies in its changing character. Over the years, it has shifted from a solemn religious act to a busy social gathering, and from a grand parade to a small group of followers, before finally returning to its proper place of honour with the procession of the holy statue.
Writing in the middle of the nineteenth century, the observer George Percy Badger described a scene of lingering theatricality. He noted that on the Wednesday following the end of Carnival, many of those who had worn masks would travel to the small church in Zabbar, known as Della Grazia, to do penance for their “follies.” This was meant to be a public show of regret after the wildness of the carnival week. However, as time went on, the upper classes began to stay away. One imagines that the serious nature of British rule did not sit well with the wearing of masks.
In his book Id Drauujiet tal Maltin, Father Joseph Farrugia, the chaplain of the Asylum, also gives an interesting picture of the pilgrimage. In this outdoor theatre, the people made sure to wear their very best gold jewellery—a glittering walk of vanity. The village shops became displays of plenty, filled with food. Behind the glass windows were plates of fried liver, salted hams, and tripe. Beside these were the sweet, treacle-filled rings known as qagħaq tal-qastanija for the sweet toothed.
Above the noise of the crowd, the smell of rabbit stew was everywhere—a scent so strong the author tells us it reached as far as Bulebel. The mechanical music of the street organ provided a steady background to the meeting of friends, while money was spent freely from pockets full of festive coins. Father Farrugia noticed that the inhabitants of Cottonera were very fond of the meats sold by Toni il-Kaxu. Indeed, the sight of food was so formal that Farrugia compared them to a tużżell—the ornate canopy usually held over the high altar.
As the last notes of the music died away, the true life of the village could be seen. The day endedwith the sound of wooden chairs placed again inside people’s homes. However, the Church remained watchful. Under the guidance of the clergy, who were becoming more sobre in their aesthetic expression, the pilgrimage was transformed into a korteo. John Garzia, pictured how the new transformed pilgrimage did not mean the end of the devotion. Through the hard work of Father Zarb, grand floats have been built to bring together the spirit of prayer with the celebration of favours granted by the Madonna.
Though the numbers of people had dropped for a time, the decision to carry the statue of Our Lady in procession has seen the crowds grow larger than ever. It seems that when the Church leads with a clear and traditional path, the hearts of the people are happy to follow. This year marks the 75th Anniversary since the coronation of Our Lady of Graces, the pilgrimage is going to leave the church at 4:45 PM, accompanied by the four confraternities and 8 groups of statue-bearers.
